Bali Artilce: Sacred Rice and Subak Temples in Bali

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Rice and its cultivation are central to the Balinese way of life. In Balinese eyes, rice is a gift from the gods-it was created by the Hindu deity Vishnu who then presented it to man as his divine patrimony. In this respect, rice is a sacred thing whose cultivation entails not only planting and looking after the crop as it grows towards maturity, but also requires the careful implementation of a set of ritual procedures first laid down by the god Indra. Subak Associations The modern Balinese farmer grows two crops of rice each year in irrigated, terraced rice fields which for many are the definitive feature of the Balinese landscape. Water sources in the mountains are directed to each individual rice field by an intricate network of channels and aqueducts, whose maintenance and regulation are governed by local cooperative organizations called subak. Each mini-watershed has its own subak council, made up from neighbouring farmers who are party to this common water supply: together they are responsible for the equable distribution of water to all the irrigated rice fields within their purview. Each subak council has its own temple (ulun carik), which is situated in the middle of the rice fields belonging to its member, and this is where the major ceremonies of the rice cycle are held. The temple of Ulun Danau, on Lake Bratan, is identified as the `mother` temple of all the subak system on the island and some subak associations make regular pilgrimages to this sanctuary immediately prior to irrigating their rice fields. There are also countless small, roofless shrines (bedugul), which are commonly found in cultivated areas, typically beside a dam or weir. These tend to be erected and maintained by individual farmers whose rise fields are in the vicinity. A Balinese Harvest Home The most important subak ceremony in the agricultural cycle is the festival or ngusaba nini, which is usually held either just before or immediately after the rice harvest. It is held at the subak association temple and takes form of a thanksgiving ceremony dedicated to the rice goddess Dewi Sri. Dewi Sri is the wife of Vishnu and is one of the most popular deities in the Balinese pantheon, being conceived as the paragon of everything that is good and beautiful. Furthermore, as rice goddess, she is identified as the fountainhead of agricultural fertility and bountiful harvests, while her daughter, Dewi Melanting, is the tutelary deity of seed and plants. For the rites of ngusaba nini, a mouth-watering selection of offerings are prepared by subak association members, and after they have been dedicated by the priests to the beneficent gods, and in particular to Dewi Sri, they are shared amongst the participants at the festivals. As with all temple offerings, the gods are said to enjoy the essence (sari) of whatever is presented to them, leaving its material residue for the delectation of their followers.